Splantzia


Splantzia is the largest district of Old Town, nearly unchanged over the centuries having retained its Venetian name, a variation of the Italian word for square “plaggia” and Ottoman street plan of old.  At the time of the Venetian occupation the area was called Plaggia de San Nicola and was a popular residential area for Venetians and Cretans alike. After the Ottoman conquest it became the exclusive Muslim neighborhood in town, while in the north section of the district were stationed the Algerian Guard of the city’s garrison and was named Jezaer Kolou after them.

It is located on the eastern part of Old Town spanning the entire north to south section of the wall. Being a mostly residential neighborhood today, it has retained its medieval charm with narrow and winding alleys, bright colors, hidden passages and dead ends.  The homes are connected and cramped, often with leaning walls typical of the freestyling Ottoman architecture of that time.

The heart of the district is Splantzia square (today’s 1821 Square), was called Hugar Meidan (Imperial Square) by the Ottomans and was the gathering place of Muslims rich and poor alike.  It is dominated by a huge and ancient plane tree that was a common place of execution of unruly and rebel Cretans.  A magnificent octagonal pavilion, called Mouvekit-hanes, catering to their refreshment and entertainment needs was built in the center of the square by the conqueror of Chania Yusuf Pasha.  It was located near the plane tree and was unfortunately demolished in the early part of the 20th century.  In the far end of the square stands the Agios Nikolaos cathedral with its long, interesting and turbulent history and the underground cistern with its many uses over the years.

Mouvekit-hanes at Splantzia square – Image source

The main arteries of the district are Daskalogiannis and Minoos streets, running north to south.  The first is lined with shops and restaurants while the latter is less commercialized and is the entrance to the small and unassuming red-light district of the city.

Church of Agios Nikolaos at Chania, Crete, Greece

In recent years Splantzia has been renovated and with many cafes and restaurants scattered inside the district it has become a choice gathering place albeit less visited than the others. The entire residential area of Splantzia is worth exploring as it offers the visitor a journey through centuries past.  The Agios Nikolaos cathedral, originally a 14th century Dominican monastery, a mosque (Hugar Camisi) during the Ottoman occupation and finally an Orthodox church, is the only church in Greece with a belltower and a minaret. Here was kept the mysterious sword of the Turk Dervisi, considered sacred and miraculous by the people of the city regardless their religion.  At the edge of the square is the 17th century Catholic church of St Rocco, protector of the city from the plague and infectious diseases.

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