Tsikoudia or raki is synonymous with Crete and Cretan hospitality. It is a clear spirit produced by many agricultural co-operatives, wineries, distilleries, and families all over the island. Every guest or visitor to a Cretan home is offered a shot glass of tsikoudia as a welcoming gesture. Restaurants offer it to their patrons after they finish their meal as kerasma, a hospitality and appreciation gift. Its name derives from the tsikouda, the pits and remnants of the grapes after they have been pressed for wine.
Tsikoudia is also known as raki, a word referring to any spirit that is clear in appearance. The word raki has been a Turkish trademark since 1989 but it is still used often in reference to the Cretan tsikoudia.
A brief history
Distillation was known throughout the ancient world and developed independently in different areas. Archaeological finds in Crete provide strong evidence that the art of distillation was known in the Middle Minoan II period (1900-1700 BC). In the archeological site of Kato Zakros were found ceramic utensils, which were used for the preparation of perfumes, quite probably by distillation. Other excavations brought to light sealed clay vessels with remnants of charred marcs, possibly from their distillation, or fermentation ion vessels.
In ancient Greece, Aristotle mentions distillation as a desalination method used by sailors. The process of distillation was described by Hypatia, a remarkable female scientist of antiquity (mathematician, and philosopher) who lived in Alexandria from 364 to 416 AD.
The common distillation device used in the Greek world was the ambix, a glass or bronze vessel that, by simple heating, allowed the separation of mixtures into their components. Condensing arms outside the vessel were cooled with ambient air and allowed the most volatile components to escape. The Romans and Alexandrians distilled the resin from pine logs and concentrated the evaporating turpentine oil.
Arab alchemists adopted the ambix and renamed it alambic, a word compound from the Arabic article al and the Greek ambix. It appears that the Arabs used for the first time condensing arms which were cooled with water, in their effort to create essential oils used as perfumes after distilling juices from the respective plants.
The Byzantines called their distillation apparatus lampikos. Dionysios Pyrros the Thettalos describes it in 1818 AD.: “‘Abix or Lampikos. This is a bronze instrument, through which we distill various materials, and change them into liquid or gaseous spirits. The lampikoi are made in different ways. The lampikoi that have long necks are used to distill thinner materials, and to change them into more acute spirits.”
During the Middle Ages alchemists used distillation in their effort to create the elixir of life.
Distillation was not widely practiced in Crete during the Venetian rule since the Venetians preferred wine over distilled spirits. With the arrival of the Ottomans, however, distillation experienced a renaissance. Even though Islam forbids alcohol consumption, many associated it only with wine and a loophole was created for distillation products. Serious distillation started from Mount Athos in Northern Greece around the 15th century, as evidenced by documents of the Ecumenical Patriarchate, and spread rapidly throughout the Turkish-occupied East. As the Ottomans had little to do with viticulture, the profession soon became Greek and the Greek distillers, rakitzides, along with the perfumers, formed a privileged social class. Thus, Crete, along with Constantinople, Smyrna and Alexandria, became distillation centers.
In the 1920s, the then Prime Minister of Greece, Eleftherios Venizelos, passed a law in Parliament on the distillation of tsikoudia, which gave the first licenses for stills to farmers and viticulturists of Crete, so that they could start producing the spirit legally. The purpose of this law was to utilize the residues from the production of wine (marcs or straphyla in the Cretan dialect) through the distillation process, to offer an additional income to the producer. Licenses for small and family distilleries were for two days only annually and longer for larger producers. Since then, the license, the stills and the knowhow have been passed from father to son until today.
Tsikoudia according to the law is a distillate produced from marcs, exclusively in Crete and contains 37.5 % of alcohol by volume. In 1989, by decision of the European Commission, the “tsikoudia of Crete” is considered a product of protected geographical indication (PGI).
The making of tsikoudia
Tsikoudia production, the kazanemata, starts in early October and continuous nonstop till December. The kazanemata take place in specially designed areas, where the rakokazano naturally holds a prominent position. This process is an art mixed with science, carried out ritually with passion, meraki, but the more important purpose is to enjoy good company, good food and entertainment while making a spirit that is the pride of the village.
Usually one family in the village gets the license to run a small still, and everyone brings their strafyla in dribs and drabs over the life of the kazanisma. The license is very important and means that the still must be kept working day and night until the license expires.
The traditional Cretan still consists of the ambix, usually a copper pot, the rakokazano as it is known locally, with a large domed copper lid. Attached to the lid is a copper funnel or spiral tube leading to a water-cooled tank or container.
After the pressing of the grapes into must, the strafyla, the grape stems and skins are sealed in barrels for 30 to 40 days to ferment. Distillation operations must be carried out as soon as possible after the completion of the fermentation of the marcs, to avoid higher methanol levels and the formation of substances that could harm the still’s organoleptic characteristics.
Once the straphyla are ready for distillation the preparation begins. Friends are invited to participate in the event and the stills are getting ready. The bottom of the rakokazano is lined with thyme branches to prevent the burning of the raw material. The straphyla are then transferred from the barrels to the rakokazano, water is added, and all the connecting parts of the still are sealed firmly with flour dough to prevent the steam from escaping.
A controlled fire is lit to bring the contents to a slow boil, and once they reach the required temperature, the distillation process begins. The mixture begins to evaporate, the steam enters the tube submerged in cold water, and by cooling, the steam condenses into tsikoudia. The colder the water, the better the tsikoudia will be, since unwanted substances that have a higher liquefaction temperature than ethyl alcohol, the tsikoudia, are not liquefied.
The distillation is done in batches, each taking two to three hours to complete depending on the size of the rakokazano. The distiller will monitor the progress of the batch by measuring the alcohol level and maintaining it at 37.5% (75 proof) by adding water as needed. Every now and then, the distiller will take a glass of tsikoudia and throw it in the fire to see if it still has alcohol or not. Once the alcohol level drops below 37% the batch is declared complete,
Now comes the hardest job of all, to take the steaming hot straphyla out of the rakokazano and start the process all over again. But the comensation is worth it, fresh tsikoudia, a warm fire, a few mezedes and great company among friends.
The first few litters of each batch need to be managed carefully. It is called protoraki, very potent and high in alcohol, is usually discarded or used as rubbing alcohol but it is not unusual to be consumed with measure. The last few litters are discarded because they contain wood alcohol.
Tsikoudia is always stored in glass or stainless-steel containers. It is best consumed cold and in cold shot glasses from the freezer.
In the rest of Greece there are some variations such as tsipouro. The difference is that tsipouro is a derivative of double distillation while tsikoudia is single. During the second distillation, anise or other spices may be added to the drink, reminiscent of another Greek aperitif, ouzo.
Tsikoudia in the Cretan culture
Tsikoudia is a reference point for Crete, among other things, is a sign of friendship and kindness and a tool of communication. With a tsikoudia the Cretans make a wish but also welcome their visitors, with it they talk and enjoy each other’s company, with it they overcome their sorrows, celebrate their joys and resolve their differences.
The rakokazano is not so much the economic activity that makes it important, it is a social phenomenon and tradition. It is a meeting point for relatives and friends from villages near and far and all over Greece to enjoy the ritual and try the warm protoraki.
There is no house in Crete that does not have on the table a bottle with tsikoudia ready to offer to any visitor a warm and spirited welcome.
Health benefits
According to the locals, if your ailment cannot be cured with tsikoudia it is probably very serious.
White spirits, in small doses (1-2 glasses) provide health benefits. Tsikoudia is considered an excellent digestive. Also, thanks to the alcohol it contains, it causes vasodilation and reduction of blood pressure. It also has antimicrobial properties, which is why it is used in many home medicines for colds, fevers, and headaches. It is also a good drink for those who are on a diet. White spirits change the balance of fats in the blood by increasing cardioprotective good (HDL) cholesterol and lowering bad (LDL) cholesterol, while reducing the adhesion of platelets to the blood molecules responsible for thrombosis.
Tsikoudia is a pure drink, as it does not contain dyes and industrial alcohols. It relaxes and calms the mind and body. However, it is a strong drink, with a very high alcohol content of 37%, so it needs a measure. Tsikoudia is usually consumed cold, but it can be a very good hot drink for the winter. By heating tsikoudia and adding honey, cinnamon or pepper, we create the well-known rakomelo, which helps us to warm up when suffering from a cold or the flue.
Recipe with tsikoudia for colds
Ingredients
1/2 glass of red wine
1/2 glass of tsikoudia
4 cloves
freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon honey
Execution
Put all the ingredients in a small saucepan except the honey and bring to a boil.
Remove from the heat and once it cools down a bit add the honey.
Serve warm.
The recommended doses of alcohol are up to 20 gr. for women and up to 32 gr for men of alcohol per day. This translates to 75 ml of 40% alcohol per day.
Not recommended for those suffering from epilepsy, pancreatic disease or liver disease.
